Mulu National Park – Where the Earth Breathes

Some journeys begin in the quiet before dawn.Our day started at 4:30 a.m., the air still heavy with sleep, the promise of adventure pulling us forward. After a quick breakfast, our driver whisked us to the airport in Kota Kinabalu, where a small propeller plane waited to carry us deep into Sarawak, into Mulu, one of Borneo’s most remote and remarkable corners.

The flight itself felt like stepping back in time: a 36-seater aircraft skimming low over endless jungle. As we landed on the tiny airstrip surrounded by green, it was clear, we had arrived somewhere truly special.

Into the Wild

Mulu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is home to some of the world’s largest caves and most intricate limestone formations. It’s also one of those rare places where the rainforest feels alive, breathing, whispering, pulsing all around you.

Our local guide greeted us with a smile that said “Welcome to the jungle.” After dropping our bags, we began our first adventure: a 7.5-kilometre hike through dense rainforest toward the famous Deer & Lang Caves.

The trail wound past towering trees and vines that seemed to touch the clouds. The humidity wrapped around us like a warm blanket. It was hard work, slippery roots, endless steps, but the reward was beyond imagination.

Arrival at Mulu airport

The Symphony of the Bats

The Deer Cave is vast, cathedral-like, and alive with movement.At around 5 p.m., the spectacle begins: millions of bats rise in dark ribbons against the fading light, streaming from the cave in elegant spirals. The sound, the rush of wings, the distant cries of predators, feels like nature’s own orchestra.

We stood in silence, mesmerized, watching this delicate balance of life and survival unfold in front of us.For half an hour, the sky danced.

Back at the lodge, dinner and exhaustion waited in equal measure. The food was simple, the service forgettable, but honestly, after what we had just witnessed, nothing else really mattered.

Stories of the Penan People

The next morning began with a boat ride along the river, our wooden longboat gliding over calm, brown waters.Our first stop was a Penan longhouse, home to one of Borneo’s indigenous tribes.

Our guide shared stories of their past, how the Penan once lived entirely off the forest, moving with the rhythm of nature, before tourism and modern life slowly changed their world. Today, they live in permanent homes, yet their craftsmanship and traditions endure.

We tried the blowpipe, once used for hunting with poisoned darts, and admired the beautiful handmade jewelry and baskets at the small market stalls. Buying a few souvenirs felt different here, not touristy, but personal, like exchanging gratitude for a glimpse into their world.

Wind and Water

Back in the boat, we traveled to the Wind Cave, named for the cool air that rushes through its narrow openings. The walls glistened with minerals, sculpted by centuries of water and time.

Further on, Clearwater Cave awaited, connected to the Wind Cave by an underground river stretching over 250 kilometres, one of the longest in the world.Rob climbed the 700 steps to reach the entrance (with admirable determination!), while I stayed below, sharing stories with our boatman.

He spoke quietly of his childhood in the forest, of how the climate has changed, how the days feel hotter now, and the rains more unpredictable since the trees near the airport and hotels were cut down. His words lingered longer than the cave’s silence.

Rain, Laughter, and the Rhythm of Mulu

Lunch was simple and perfect, rice, noodles, and tropical fruit prepared by our guide.Then the skies opened.Rain poured down in sheets, and we laughed, because what else can you do in a rainforest when the heavens decide to join the adventure?

By the time we returned to the lodge, we were soaked, happy, and completely at peace. We washed our clothes, treated ourselves to ice cream, and watched butterflies fluttering between bursts of rain.

Dinner that night? Chips and satay that were nearly inedible, but we didn’t mind. Sometimes imperfection is part of the story.

Reflections

Mulu National Park is more than caves and rivers.It’s a place where the earth still breathes, where every sound, every drop of rain, every bat in flight reminds you how alive the planet truly is.

Here, you learn to slow down, to listen, to see beyond comfort and convenience.To walk barefoot in the mud and realize that connection, to nature, to people, to place, is what makes travel meaningful.

When the six-o’clock cicadas begin their song and the jungle hums its eternal rhythm, you can’t help but feel grateful to have witnessed even a small piece of this living, breathing miracle.